I have been to Hari Parbat fort, the magnificent Mughal-era monument which dominates the Srinagar skyline. But I had never before come across the small, quiet, community that nestles in its shadow.

The Shankaracharya Temple offers a stupendous view over the entire of Srinagar metropolis, the view of Hari Parbat, Nigeen Lake, Mughal Gardens, Dal Lake and the great Pir Panjal mountain range at ...